Jide Alakija

03 Feb 2009 1,746 views
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Worthless shit

For your information N1000 is the equivalent value of about £5.

My Tip today: When shooting outdoor shots the sky is usually the brightest part of the shot and as a result tends to blow out the sensor i.e. overexpose. I personally tend to do most of my outdoor shots during sunset or sometimes at dusk.

I wanted a shallow depth of field in this one to create a focus on the signpost. I chose f/3.2 as my aperture setting. My lens would allow for f/2.8 but I wanted to preserve the sharpness of the focused image. Some lenses loose sharpness at very low apertures especially those with very high focal ranges for example the Sigma 70-300mm lens does not produce sharp images for this reason.

The vignetting is as a result of the wide aperture (f/3.2)

Finally some slight dodging and burning with colour toning using the curves has been applied in the post production.

(I hope these hints are helpful, I have spent quite a bit of time looking through the net for links to explain the terms I THINK you might not understand)

comments (18)

  • eo
  • Belgium
  • 3 Feb 2009, 00:07
thanks for the tip
Jide Alakija: No problem...I hope it helps.
  • eo
  • Belgium
  • 3 Feb 2009, 00:11
okay have to ask. did you catch him in the act? cos the hat looks to cool to belong to someone so uncouth smile great composition. i'd always gone to the widest aperture to blur my background but often i'm always upset cos the pics are a bit blurred.

ok some specific questions for you. my two most frustrating shooting scenarios are indoors and in bright sunlight. any tips on how to get sharper pictures indoors (to flash or not to flash, and if to flash, to bounce off the wall or not? sad)
also how do i avoid overexposure out doors?
Jide Alakija: No I set it all up. I couldn't resist. I must admit that the hat gives all that away. I didn't want him recognizable.

RE: lighting indoors, I strongly suggest you get a lens with a really wide aperture, I know it's expensive but you'll get some very amazing results even when you use the flash. I use the flash but I shoot with it "off-camera" i.e via an extension flash cable to control the direction of the light. I don't like bouncing off the ceiling as you get some nasty shadows under the eyes that make your subjects rather unattractive.

To avoid overexposure outdoors, watch your ISO, make sure you shoot at low ISO especially when shooting at wide apertures. If you want to shoot at say f/1.4 and you still have blow outs at ISO100 then invest in some ND filters that will cut out some of the light.

Does this help?
Oh I understand the speed concept already: that is to prevent blurring. so if you us a focal lenght of 250 one should use a speed of at least 1/250 sec grin Techie coming out again lol
Jide Alakija: Nice one Mate!
  • Kay
  • United States
  • 3 Feb 2009, 04:13
Lovin' your series here, Jide. We can all benefit.
Now, I love this shot...it made me laugh. smile
Jide Alakija: Thanks Kay...let's see how long I can keep this up.
  • Stan
  • United Kingdom
  • 3 Feb 2009, 06:31
My first reaction to this was bulls$%^, thats a contrived shot if i ever saw one. Since you've owned up to it, its amusing tongue

Now on to your commentary. I think a tip you could have added for the readers is to meter for the sky and use a flash to help balance the exposure(yes folks, this is why people use a flash when the sun is high in the sky).

As for lenses, ALL lenses benefit from being stopped down (large apertures)no matter how sharp they may seem wide open (low apertures).

Lenses with high apertures are generally lower quality lenses and hence tend to be mediocre performers. They get better stopped down but are still not great. My point being that they loose sharpness not because they are being used at small apertures but because they are cheap and cheerful. There are some exceptions but those are a different kettle of fish.

Yes, Jide i'm aware you know all of this. Just trying to contribute a little to what you started.
Jide Alakija: Dude...most ad type shots are very contrived.

Thanks for the addition, I'd rather you speak about this than I. I got slaughtered for such techie jargon.
  • Stan
  • United Kingdom
  • 3 Feb 2009, 06:50
This one is for EO and aadesanya. I'm no expert but it appears I may be able to add a little here.

If you're getting blowouts in outdoor portrait shots at low iso, your problem may be one of dynamic range. Try metering for the sky (or brightest part of the scene) and using supplementary lighting (flash) to light up the subject.

The smaller your light source the more diffusion is required. Its nigh on impossible to get good quality lighting from direct flash. Bouncing is just another method of diffusing. I'd recommend the joe demb flip it. If you're taking your speedlight, have it with you. ITs the most flexible and portable setup i've seen (once you learn how to use it).

Your understanding of the manual settings from 1/1 to 1/32 is correct. Trial and error and experience will tell you what you need to use.

Without going into specifics of the different flash modes all you need to remember is this. Where you point your focus point is what has the greatest impact on your exposure calculation. Understand the relationship between the type of scene you are trying to capture and how your camera meters. Forget about messing with focal lengths on your flash. Set it to auto and use flash exposure compensation to increase or reduce light intensity (based on understanding the scene). If you're using manual mode, practice makes perfect.

If you have more questions, please send me a message as I've cluttered up Jide's page too much already. Luckily I know he'll forgive me grin
Jide Alakija: Again more techie stuff I would rather you spoke about. Thanks.
  • vintage
  • Australia
  • 3 Feb 2009, 06:57
Great work very interesting sign
Jide Alakija: Thanks.
There's a N600 fine for "simulating" beside the signpost, Jide - now pay up! grin
Jide Alakija: Cheeky!!! wink
Love the humour.
Jide Alakija: Thanks Mary
  • Stan
  • United Kingdom
  • 3 Feb 2009, 12:31
Jide stop pretending you're not a highly trained tech-head..err i mean engineer who has done some serious research in some very obscure and techy stuff :p
Jide Alakija: Gulp!...:S
Brilliant shot...full of humour....
and a lovely black and white....
Jide Alakija: Thanks Sarina.
Well posted jide ;-) richard
Jide Alakija: Thanks Richard.
  • Mo
  • London
  • 3 Feb 2009, 19:13
This shot has got me laughing out loud! You could start a series of signs you'll find 'only in Nigeria' Thanks for the tips. Enjoying the whole techie dialogue that's going on.
Jide Alakija: Thanks Mo...hope you are good.
Great shot and I love the way you processed it!
Jide Alakija: Thanks Gina.
  • wale
  • United States
  • 3 Feb 2009, 21:54
great photo. great tips. thanks for sharing.
Jide Alakija: Thanks Wale.
  • àsìkò
  • United Kingdom
  • 3 Feb 2009, 22:48
Love this Jide and I love that you kinda set it up. Photography is an art, an expression, story telling among other things. The shot is funny sha and creative.
Jide Alakija: Thanx dude.....
  • eo
  • Belgium
  • 4 Feb 2009, 15:31
Thanks for the advice. It does, I do have a f2.8 lense and the others are f3.5. Is that good enough or should i be looking at an affordable f1/4 by sigma smile

Also i know this might be a very basic question, but i also find that at shorter focal lengths i get a fish eye effect and no parallel lines sad. Any way to counter act this?

Lastly, need to ask about colour.
A)Walked into many stores and haven't yet gotten a color checker card. Is there any alternative (a white piece of paper?)
B) Find that when i process pics on my Mac they look darker on the PC. Does this mean i have to do two sets? sad
C) When to use black or white instead of colour.

I have some thoughts on this, but when a master is offering advise, wise men sit and listen smile
  • Chichi
  • United States
  • 6 Feb 2009, 20:55
This is hilarious. Great job Jide.
Jide Alakija: Thanks Chichi

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for this photo I'm in a constructive critical comments icon ShMood©
camera Canon EOS 5D
exposure mode aperture priority
shutterspeed 1/3200s
aperture f/3.2
sensitivity ISO200
focal length 24.0mm
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